Divided Destination

Published in One Magazine January 2008

The Chain Bridge is more than a magnificent icon of an Eastern European city which tourists walk in order to peer into the glorious Danube. Its main task since 1873 has been to unite the ancient cities of Buda and Pest into a modern Budapest.

While the Chain Bridge does its job, there still remain distinct differences between the two sections of Hungary’s capital.

Buda is the posh and royal side, made up of rolling hills, and literally looks down at the blue-collar, flat Pest. While Pest grows as the city’s modern and cultural barometer, Buda remains preserved in its glamorous style.

The Royal Palace of Buda perched atop a hill like a crown is best reached by a funicular which starts its journey at the base of the Danube. The inexpensive ride at 1,700 Hungarian Forint ($10 US) is a quick trip to the top affording breathtaking views of Pest.

The funicular drops you at the heart of Buda with the former Royal Palace to the south and the current president of Hungary’s home to the north. While there are several guards around the president’s home, the pomp of the former monarchy is long gone.

Instead, now the palace and the surrounding Castle District are for the people of Budapest and the growing numbers of tourists who are finding out what this city has to offer.

Along with the traditional museums of a tourist town like the Budapest History Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art, there are also ancient churches where the Hungarian kings were crowned, remains of Roman fortresses, well-manicured squares and The Hungarian House of Wines. The latter has an extensive supply of wines where 3,400 Hungarian Forint ($20 US) will get you as many tastes of the growing Hungarian wine industry as you can stomach.

Just to the south of the Royal Palace is Gellert Hill. Here paths twist and turn among lush trees and cut up through the steep hill side. Many observation decks are in place so that walkers can take in the many views of the Danube and her two banks that have been named an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Trekking up the hill is a rewarding experience not only for the amazing views but also for the memorial of Saint Gellert himself. This vast monument was erected in 1904 and is meant to glorify the patron saint of Budapest. From its location midway up the hill the monument can be seen from almost any where in the city and is truly spectacular at night.

Perched loftily at the top of Gellert Hill are the Citadel and its Liberation Monument. A former Hapsburg fortification the Citadel has been turned into a tourist destination with a restaurant, hotel and nightclub. The Liberation Monument, built to celebrate the freeing of Budapest from the Russians in 1945, is another imposing monument that can also be seen from all over the city.

At the foot of the hill is the famous Gellert Hotel known for its outstanding service and legendary thermal baths. The early 20th Century was the halcyon days for this hotel. The Gellert is still popular today because of its ornately tiled thermal baths. Tourists and Hungarians flock not only to this hotel and its spa but to many of the other medicinal thermal baths found in Budapest.

Taking in the natural healing waters is a favorite Hungarian pastime. The Romans first discovered the abundance of the thermal springs and built many bath houses. Yet it is the Turks, who occupied Hungary for 150 years, that placed their mark on the bathing ritual and made it what it is today. This continues in three of Budapest’s bathhouses: the Kiraly Baths, the Csazar Baths and the Rudas Baths. However, it is the Szechenyi Medicinal Baths that are the largest in Europe.

At the Szechenyi Baths in the City Park, on the Pest side, men gather to play chess as they restore in the healing waters of the bath. These baths, three of which are located outdoors, are known as the hottest in Budapest and are popular all year round even when it rains or snows.

Along with the Szechenyi Baths the Pest side has just as many opportunities to explore.

Pest is known as the blue collar, working side of Budapest. It is on this side that the working class lives and the seat of the government can be found. This is a direct contrast to the Buda side where the more elite reside and the echoes of royalty remain.

Parliament, with its large, red dome, can be found along the Danube. The building was based on the Houses of Parliament in London and is the new symbol of Budapest.

Not too far from Parliament is St. Stephan’s Basilica. This church is named after St. Stephan (Istvan), the first Christian King of Hungary. Built in the 1800s, this church was also a causality of World War II. The most intriguing component of this church is the actual right hand of King Stephan. It is kept in the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand located in the back of the church. A small contribution will turn on the light inside the display case revealing the king’s holy bones.

After an enlightening visit to St. Stephan’s, a stroll down the pedestrian shopping street known as The Vaci Utca with its high end boutiques, antique shops, wine stores and many restaurants is a welcome respite. The Secessionist architecture, similar to Art Nuveau, blends into the modern reminding people that Budapest has come from the old into the new.

At the south end of the Vaci is the Central Market Hall, a good old fashioned market where fresh meat, produce and Russian caviar are sold amongst tourist treats of paprika and fried meats, bread and beer. It is a true shopper’s delight if you are looking for inexpensive souvenirs or a fresh local meal.

Of all of Budapest’s qualities, the most consistent and satisfying is the food. Local beers and wine are palatable companions to chicken or veal paprika. Spicy goulash soup will burn your throat and satisfy any hunger. Stroganoff with fried cheese croquettes will delight any appetite. Tasty rich chocolates and slices of sinful cakes are served by the thousands at stylish cafes like Gerbeaud.

Budapest is a combination of many things. Two cities divided by a natural border finally brought together by human ingenuity. It is a chaotic mixture of architecture, food and cultures resulting in a wonderful place to explore. The people are kind and genuine and always ready to assist to get you beyond the language barrier. Hungary has had a rich history that has afforded an intermingled culture that can delight anyone.

Budapest is growing at amazing rates. Construction of new luxury hotels is everywhere. The infrastructure is being modernized. Higher end stores are opening along the Vaci Utca.
Yet each side of the Danube still retains its character and stays true to itself.

While there may be gleaming new hotels, Escada outlets, and touristy fast food restaurants Budapest will never forget where it has been and what it has to offer. This melding of old and new, modern and ancient, east and west makes Budapest the perfect vacation destination.

Scrumptious Scandinavia

Published in One Magazine September 2006

Guests to the city of Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, are all greeted by Den Little Havfrue, the Little Mermaid.

The mermaid is one of the most beloved character’s from renowned local author Hans Christian Anderson’s children books. Her tiny figure sits in the harbor entering Copenhagen, where she’s guarded by a perilous pile of rocks that brave tourists climb up and over to touch her.

Her presence is a fitting introduction to a city known as fairytale kingdom complete with breathtaking castles and gorgeous churches. But Copenhagen is more modern than its reputation suggests. In fact, it’s a complex city with many layers to be discovered.

Copenhagen sits on the eastern edge of the island of Northwestern Zealand. With the Baltic Sea to the east and Germany to the south, this cosmopolitan city acts as a bridge between Europe and Scandinavia while boasting the oldest monarchy in the world.

Once a land filled with pillaging Vikings, the kingdom of Denmark is now a capital of design and culinary experiences while retaining its fairytale image.

After being greeted by the mermaid, the cobblestone streets of the north lend charm as they lead you into the city.

Just south of the famous mermaid is the cozy section Nyhaven. Once a stomping ground for drunken sailors and their ladies of the night, this lively spot is now full of cafes filled with people soaking up the reclusive Copenhagen sun.

Some prefer to sit at the tables with friends and chat away the evening over a bottle of wine. Others bring their own local brew and sit across from the cafes on the banks of the canal.
Filled to capacity night or day, summer or winter this charming spot of brightly painted row houses keeps drawing you in every time you pass by. If a late night on the town isn’t your cup of tea then Tivoli will please you.

Opened in 1843, this much beloved amusement park is considered a national treasure to the Danes. The opening of Tivoli in April is a signal that the long winter is almost over and spring is around the corner.

The list of attractions is endless: bands performing in open-air pavilions, countless restaurants dotted along hidden walkways, roller coasters and towering rides emitting screams of delight can be heard from all corners of the Victorian playground.

As delightful as the tourist stops are, Copenhagen is a complex city with many layers to be discovered. The first impression of the city is one of a fairytale kingdom complete with castles and gorgeous churches. But as you take in more of the city you become aware that the capital mixes modern design with regal buildings of the past.

An example of new mixing with old is the newly built Det Kongelige Bibliotek (the Royal Library). Located next to the 100-year-old Christianborg Palace ‘The Black Diamond’ (nicknamed so because of its angular black windows and granite exterior) is an extension of the 19th century library connected by a skybridge. Now a showpiece for music and art this modern building shows how Copenhagen flows into the future while holding onto her past.

One glorious example of Denmark’s past is the Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church) completed in 1752. Its magnificent spire is part of the Copenhagen skyline and is accessible by a 400-step staircase that runs around the exterior of the building. The perilous hike to the top of the church (295-ft) offers a breathtaking view of Copenhagen.

While the city is dotted with older feats of architecture like the Borsen (Stock Exchange) or the Radhus (City Hall), Danish design is evident in its modern buildings. The Operaen (Opera House) opened in January 2005 and was designed by Denmark’s own Henning Larsen. The 376,000 sq. ft building is composed of German limestone and can seat 1,800 people. The Opera is located on the island of Holmen, which is in the Copenhagen Harbor and lines up directly opposite Amalienborg Palace.

While the style and architecture of Denmark evolves with time the rich traditions of food remain a constant. The Danish are warm and friendly people, and they certainly know how to have a good time. While enjoying each other’s company the Danes also enjoy their food. Not surprisingly their traditional dishes revolve around fish.

The most popular fish dish is herring and according to national etiquette this tasty treat is always served first. There are many ways to prepare this traditional appetizer including pickled, curried, or lathered in tomato or sherry sauce. Herring is best enjoyed with rye bread and washed down with a Carlsberg beer or a shot of akvavit.

"Let the herring swim!" is the cry of the Danish as they sit down with a plate of herring and a glass of akvavit. This favorite liqueur is herbal schnapps served chilled and often followed with a beer. Extremely popular, akvavit is the drink of the holidays. If the much beloved schnapps like drink isn’t found in the home on the festive days of Christmas the guests won’t be staying long.

While akvavit is the drink of the nation, the smørrebrøds (Danish open sandwich) is the lunch of choice. Literally meaning ‘buttered bread’ Smørrebrøds shops can be found on every street in the city, but the most famous one is Ida Davidsen.

Ida Davidsen’s is a fifth generation lunch spot that has 250 types of smørrebrød to choose from. The cozy little restaurant is filled with all kinds of people from businessmen to tourists. As the wait staff shuttles their customers from station to station giving hurried verbal explanations or opinions on what to eat, Ida herself can be seen walking from the kitchen with trays of fresh smørrebrød. Her creations are endless. The sandwiches can be topped with anything including shrimp, caviar, roast beef, eggs, pate and meatballs.

Whether it is a traditional meal or a stop at one of the many mobile hot dog stands, Denmark has many food options. From three-star Michelin restaurants or one of the colorful row houses of Nyhaven, Copenhagen will surprise and delight.

Just across the Orsund Sound via the newly built Orsund Bridge, the country of Sweden has never been more accessible. A few hours north and the picturesque capital of Stockholm built on fourteen islands sits in all her fairytale glory. Like Denmark, Sweden has a Viking past but a modern outlook, however, there are differences between the two countries linked by history and culture.

Unlike Copenhagen, Stockholm is a well-preserved medieval city. There are older buildings with spires and narrower staircases. In the district known as Gamla Stan winding cobblestone roads lead to hidden architectural treasures and the days of Sweden’s romantic past.

Clustered together on this quaint island are the Royal Palace, Parliament, the Noble Peace Prize Museum, many churches, Marten Trotzigs Grand (the city’s narrowest street), and Vasterlanggatan the popular pedestrian shopping street.

Within the bustling steps of the Vasterlanggatan and under the blue Scandinavian sky there is an Omaha connection. The owner of a small store called The Old Picture Company, a native Swede, once lived in the U.S. While at one time a small business owner in California, Patrick visited Lincoln and Omaha various times on business. Even in the land of herring and soccer another form of football is discussed. All it takes is the words, "How are those Huskers doing?"

If reminiscing about football or discussing soccer isn’t enough to stimulate, then a trip to the Noble Peace Prize Museum will.

A small but informative and interactive museum gives background on Alfred Nobel and his legacy. A card listing the accomplishments of each prizewinner is randomly displayed on a moving rack mounted on the ceiling. Numerous televisions with looping footage show the award presentations that take place every year on the 10th of December. Temporary exhibits also take you into the minds of previous honorees.

Just around the corner of the museum lies the Outer Courtyard of the Royal Palace. Every day at noon the spectacular changing of the guard takes place. This hour-long piece of pomp and circumstance including a 26-piece band all atop horses. Various songs and spectacular feats are performed dazzling the crowd.

Stockholm also has its fair share of exceptional dining. With the sun setting later each day that spring comes to fruition, the Swedes stay out longer and enjoy dinner in the cool air. Like the Danes the Swedes take delight in herring and akvavit. However, if herbal schnapps isn’t to your liking another liqueur called Calvados is offered.

The Swedes are more reserved than the Danes are, but their hospitality is just as warm. Whether it’s style, scrumptious food or pleasant people wrapped in history and culture a trip to Scandinavia can’t be wrong.

Toasting Troyes

Published in One Magazine December 2005

Ninety miles east of bustling Paris, tucked into the rolling hills and vineyards, my husband and I found ourselves strolling through the cobbled stone streets of Troyes, France, last October.

Nestled in the Aube region of northeastern France, this medieval one-time capital city of the Champagne region is shaped, not surprisingly, like a champagne cork. Troyes (pronounced twah) and her people live a simple and relaxed life that is easy to slip into and hard to leave behind.

Only 90 minutes from Paris by train, Troyes is easily accessible and well worth a look. Streets and alleys connect and dissect, taking you into forgotten corners of the town where the modern world is left behind. Instead, you are reminded of ancient fairs where merchants from all over Europe would meet to sell their goods. It was during this time that the city flourished, creating these spectacular twisting streets, and made it a rival to Paris in culture and commerce.

One signature of Troyes that has remained from its glory days is the crooked half-timbered house that dot the main city center. Created of wood and cob (a mixture of compressed earth reinforced with straw) these gorgeous feats of architecture create jagged shadows over cobbled stone streets.

Tragically, many of these charming buildings were destroyed in the great fire of 1524. Because of this devastating event the people gave in and began to build more modern structures. However, there are still a large number of the timbered houses to be found in the city center.

The best way to see Troyes and to learn more about its fascinating history is by an audio-guided walk. Available at the Tourist Office for only six Euro, the ‘Cat’s Trail’ tells its tale through narrators transporting the listener to the city’s glory days.

The tour guides you through Troyes’ medieval city center before revealing a whole section of the town completely secluded from the main thoroughfare by a hidden alley.
As we emerge from this secret passage, a former chateau, now a museum, takes our breath away as it towers before us. Directly across the street is one of the nine churches of Troyes, which contains some of the famed stained glass windows for which the region is known.

Troyes has been called the “Jerusalem of stained glass” because of the large amount it possesses. The Aube region itself has 9,000 meters squared of stained glass, most of which is found in the historic center of Troyes. The art and style of stained glass flourished in the 16th and 17th centuries and Troyes became renowned for perfecting a new style of glass making.

Just beyond the city center and through the narrow alleyway of rue Linard Gonthier (a master glassmaker) leads us to the half- timbered Hotel la Maison de Rhodes, a restored hotel that contains 11 rooms. Once the building of the Knights Templar of the Order of Malta, this sister property to the Champ des Oiseaux (a hip hotel located next door) is in keeping with the medieval charm of Troyes.

As we walk through the large, red wooden gate, we immediately step into a courtyard that looks like it’s from a Shakespearean play. To the left, a wooden staircase leads up to a balcony that almost certainly Juliet could have used to call out to her doomed lover Romeo. To our right is a door that leads to a turret and its winding wooden staircase up to our room in the rafters.

The rooms at the Hotel La Maison de Rhodes are simple, yet elegant. Each room is different and works around the room’s architectural focal point.

In the Prieure room, the ceiling is composed of exposed wooden beams. The floor is tiled and represents the modest decor of the 17th century. Most rooms have large luxurious tubs great for soaking in after a long hard day of drinking wine and eating chocolate-filled pastries.

Literally at the gate of the hotel is the Place St. Pierre a small square where the Cathedral of St. Pierre and St. Paul towers in its gothic glory. It is around this square that John and I make our “home” for the next four days.

Every good tourist needs a few dependable destinations to get by. In Troyes, we have these sorted out on the first day: The Thierry Plique chocolatiere and patissier for bread and the all-important mouth-watering pastries; the Museum Café (right across the patissier) for afternoon wine in the shadow of the Cathedral’s bell tower; the le Celadon restaurant for an exceptional French meal; and the sandwich shop when the city closes down on Sunday and there is nowhere else to go.

We knew we had picked the right places when we kept running into the same locals and Brits who make Troyes their weekend home.

Also located in the square is the Modern Art Museum next to the Cathedral. This one time Episcopal Palace has been turned into a fantastic showcase for paintings, drawings and glassworks. Artists such as Picasso, Matisse and Modigliani can be seen for as little as six Euro. A lovely sculpture garden is included in the tour.

Days is Troyes revolve around a schedule that has existed for centuries.
Each morning is promptly started at 8 a.m. with a croissant and coffee. Shops open at 9 a.m. and then punctually close from noon to 2 p.m. Lunch is still a long affair in this city, and one is advised to play along or you will have nothing to do. After a leisurely lunch, it’s back to sight seeing and shopping until 7 p.m., when everything closes down again. The eight o’clock hour arrives and it’s off to another unhurried meal.

Though Troyes in the Champagne region, you must travel 72 miles north to the city of Reims to tour many of region’s most well-known champagne houses.

Taittinger, G.H. Mumm & Co., Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin and Pommery are just a few of the big name champagne houses that will take you on a tour of their caves. A drink is included in the price and there are tours in English. It is possible to also just have a drink and skip the tour if you are short on time. Reservations are not required but recommended if you want to fit in all the tours because many close for the lunch hour.

While most of the houses are large and cater to the charter bus crowd, it is often in your best interest to seek out the smaller houses. This is exactly what John and I do, and we don’t regret it for a moment.

At G.H. Martel & Co., we receive first-class treatment, as we were basically the only ones there. Instead of being a tourist in a group, we were treated as friends who had come over for a drink. Our guide invests a lot of time in us and goes into full detail of the champagne process to satisfy my curious husband.

While in Reims, the Notre-Dame Cathedral is a gorgeous site not to be missed. From any side, the gargoyles stare you down as you take in its gothic beauty, which in my opinion rivals the Notre- Dame Cathedral in Paris. Listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site, it too has a bevy of beautiful stained glass including works by modern master Mark Chagall.

While Reims has its magnificent Cathedral and the champagne houses, it can’t beat the splendid charm of Troyes. It is easy to get lost in the many alleys and lanes that wind through the half-timbered houses of the 14th century.

Whether you want to drink champagne, take in some art, see historical architecture, or just chill out the Aube region of France has it all. Vive la Troyes!