Scrumptious Scandinavia

Published in One Magazine September 2006

Guests to the city of Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, are all greeted by Den Little Havfrue, the Little Mermaid.

The mermaid is one of the most beloved character’s from renowned local author Hans Christian Anderson’s children books. Her tiny figure sits in the harbor entering Copenhagen, where she’s guarded by a perilous pile of rocks that brave tourists climb up and over to touch her.

Her presence is a fitting introduction to a city known as fairytale kingdom complete with breathtaking castles and gorgeous churches. But Copenhagen is more modern than its reputation suggests. In fact, it’s a complex city with many layers to be discovered.

Copenhagen sits on the eastern edge of the island of Northwestern Zealand. With the Baltic Sea to the east and Germany to the south, this cosmopolitan city acts as a bridge between Europe and Scandinavia while boasting the oldest monarchy in the world.

Once a land filled with pillaging Vikings, the kingdom of Denmark is now a capital of design and culinary experiences while retaining its fairytale image.

After being greeted by the mermaid, the cobblestone streets of the north lend charm as they lead you into the city.

Just south of the famous mermaid is the cozy section Nyhaven. Once a stomping ground for drunken sailors and their ladies of the night, this lively spot is now full of cafes filled with people soaking up the reclusive Copenhagen sun.

Some prefer to sit at the tables with friends and chat away the evening over a bottle of wine. Others bring their own local brew and sit across from the cafes on the banks of the canal.
Filled to capacity night or day, summer or winter this charming spot of brightly painted row houses keeps drawing you in every time you pass by. If a late night on the town isn’t your cup of tea then Tivoli will please you.

Opened in 1843, this much beloved amusement park is considered a national treasure to the Danes. The opening of Tivoli in April is a signal that the long winter is almost over and spring is around the corner.

The list of attractions is endless: bands performing in open-air pavilions, countless restaurants dotted along hidden walkways, roller coasters and towering rides emitting screams of delight can be heard from all corners of the Victorian playground.

As delightful as the tourist stops are, Copenhagen is a complex city with many layers to be discovered. The first impression of the city is one of a fairytale kingdom complete with castles and gorgeous churches. But as you take in more of the city you become aware that the capital mixes modern design with regal buildings of the past.

An example of new mixing with old is the newly built Det Kongelige Bibliotek (the Royal Library). Located next to the 100-year-old Christianborg Palace ‘The Black Diamond’ (nicknamed so because of its angular black windows and granite exterior) is an extension of the 19th century library connected by a skybridge. Now a showpiece for music and art this modern building shows how Copenhagen flows into the future while holding onto her past.

One glorious example of Denmark’s past is the Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church) completed in 1752. Its magnificent spire is part of the Copenhagen skyline and is accessible by a 400-step staircase that runs around the exterior of the building. The perilous hike to the top of the church (295-ft) offers a breathtaking view of Copenhagen.

While the city is dotted with older feats of architecture like the Borsen (Stock Exchange) or the Radhus (City Hall), Danish design is evident in its modern buildings. The Operaen (Opera House) opened in January 2005 and was designed by Denmark’s own Henning Larsen. The 376,000 sq. ft building is composed of German limestone and can seat 1,800 people. The Opera is located on the island of Holmen, which is in the Copenhagen Harbor and lines up directly opposite Amalienborg Palace.

While the style and architecture of Denmark evolves with time the rich traditions of food remain a constant. The Danish are warm and friendly people, and they certainly know how to have a good time. While enjoying each other’s company the Danes also enjoy their food. Not surprisingly their traditional dishes revolve around fish.

The most popular fish dish is herring and according to national etiquette this tasty treat is always served first. There are many ways to prepare this traditional appetizer including pickled, curried, or lathered in tomato or sherry sauce. Herring is best enjoyed with rye bread and washed down with a Carlsberg beer or a shot of akvavit.

"Let the herring swim!" is the cry of the Danish as they sit down with a plate of herring and a glass of akvavit. This favorite liqueur is herbal schnapps served chilled and often followed with a beer. Extremely popular, akvavit is the drink of the holidays. If the much beloved schnapps like drink isn’t found in the home on the festive days of Christmas the guests won’t be staying long.

While akvavit is the drink of the nation, the smørrebrøds (Danish open sandwich) is the lunch of choice. Literally meaning ‘buttered bread’ Smørrebrøds shops can be found on every street in the city, but the most famous one is Ida Davidsen.

Ida Davidsen’s is a fifth generation lunch spot that has 250 types of smørrebrød to choose from. The cozy little restaurant is filled with all kinds of people from businessmen to tourists. As the wait staff shuttles their customers from station to station giving hurried verbal explanations or opinions on what to eat, Ida herself can be seen walking from the kitchen with trays of fresh smørrebrød. Her creations are endless. The sandwiches can be topped with anything including shrimp, caviar, roast beef, eggs, pate and meatballs.

Whether it is a traditional meal or a stop at one of the many mobile hot dog stands, Denmark has many food options. From three-star Michelin restaurants or one of the colorful row houses of Nyhaven, Copenhagen will surprise and delight.

Just across the Orsund Sound via the newly built Orsund Bridge, the country of Sweden has never been more accessible. A few hours north and the picturesque capital of Stockholm built on fourteen islands sits in all her fairytale glory. Like Denmark, Sweden has a Viking past but a modern outlook, however, there are differences between the two countries linked by history and culture.

Unlike Copenhagen, Stockholm is a well-preserved medieval city. There are older buildings with spires and narrower staircases. In the district known as Gamla Stan winding cobblestone roads lead to hidden architectural treasures and the days of Sweden’s romantic past.

Clustered together on this quaint island are the Royal Palace, Parliament, the Noble Peace Prize Museum, many churches, Marten Trotzigs Grand (the city’s narrowest street), and Vasterlanggatan the popular pedestrian shopping street.

Within the bustling steps of the Vasterlanggatan and under the blue Scandinavian sky there is an Omaha connection. The owner of a small store called The Old Picture Company, a native Swede, once lived in the U.S. While at one time a small business owner in California, Patrick visited Lincoln and Omaha various times on business. Even in the land of herring and soccer another form of football is discussed. All it takes is the words, "How are those Huskers doing?"

If reminiscing about football or discussing soccer isn’t enough to stimulate, then a trip to the Noble Peace Prize Museum will.

A small but informative and interactive museum gives background on Alfred Nobel and his legacy. A card listing the accomplishments of each prizewinner is randomly displayed on a moving rack mounted on the ceiling. Numerous televisions with looping footage show the award presentations that take place every year on the 10th of December. Temporary exhibits also take you into the minds of previous honorees.

Just around the corner of the museum lies the Outer Courtyard of the Royal Palace. Every day at noon the spectacular changing of the guard takes place. This hour-long piece of pomp and circumstance including a 26-piece band all atop horses. Various songs and spectacular feats are performed dazzling the crowd.

Stockholm also has its fair share of exceptional dining. With the sun setting later each day that spring comes to fruition, the Swedes stay out longer and enjoy dinner in the cool air. Like the Danes the Swedes take delight in herring and akvavit. However, if herbal schnapps isn’t to your liking another liqueur called Calvados is offered.

The Swedes are more reserved than the Danes are, but their hospitality is just as warm. Whether it’s style, scrumptious food or pleasant people wrapped in history and culture a trip to Scandinavia can’t be wrong.