Toasting Troyes

Published in One Magazine December 2005

Ninety miles east of bustling Paris, tucked into the rolling hills and vineyards, my husband and I found ourselves strolling through the cobbled stone streets of Troyes, France, last October.

Nestled in the Aube region of northeastern France, this medieval one-time capital city of the Champagne region is shaped, not surprisingly, like a champagne cork. Troyes (pronounced twah) and her people live a simple and relaxed life that is easy to slip into and hard to leave behind.

Only 90 minutes from Paris by train, Troyes is easily accessible and well worth a look. Streets and alleys connect and dissect, taking you into forgotten corners of the town where the modern world is left behind. Instead, you are reminded of ancient fairs where merchants from all over Europe would meet to sell their goods. It was during this time that the city flourished, creating these spectacular twisting streets, and made it a rival to Paris in culture and commerce.

One signature of Troyes that has remained from its glory days is the crooked half-timbered house that dot the main city center. Created of wood and cob (a mixture of compressed earth reinforced with straw) these gorgeous feats of architecture create jagged shadows over cobbled stone streets.

Tragically, many of these charming buildings were destroyed in the great fire of 1524. Because of this devastating event the people gave in and began to build more modern structures. However, there are still a large number of the timbered houses to be found in the city center.

The best way to see Troyes and to learn more about its fascinating history is by an audio-guided walk. Available at the Tourist Office for only six Euro, the ‘Cat’s Trail’ tells its tale through narrators transporting the listener to the city’s glory days.

The tour guides you through Troyes’ medieval city center before revealing a whole section of the town completely secluded from the main thoroughfare by a hidden alley.
As we emerge from this secret passage, a former chateau, now a museum, takes our breath away as it towers before us. Directly across the street is one of the nine churches of Troyes, which contains some of the famed stained glass windows for which the region is known.

Troyes has been called the “Jerusalem of stained glass” because of the large amount it possesses. The Aube region itself has 9,000 meters squared of stained glass, most of which is found in the historic center of Troyes. The art and style of stained glass flourished in the 16th and 17th centuries and Troyes became renowned for perfecting a new style of glass making.

Just beyond the city center and through the narrow alleyway of rue Linard Gonthier (a master glassmaker) leads us to the half- timbered Hotel la Maison de Rhodes, a restored hotel that contains 11 rooms. Once the building of the Knights Templar of the Order of Malta, this sister property to the Champ des Oiseaux (a hip hotel located next door) is in keeping with the medieval charm of Troyes.

As we walk through the large, red wooden gate, we immediately step into a courtyard that looks like it’s from a Shakespearean play. To the left, a wooden staircase leads up to a balcony that almost certainly Juliet could have used to call out to her doomed lover Romeo. To our right is a door that leads to a turret and its winding wooden staircase up to our room in the rafters.

The rooms at the Hotel La Maison de Rhodes are simple, yet elegant. Each room is different and works around the room’s architectural focal point.

In the Prieure room, the ceiling is composed of exposed wooden beams. The floor is tiled and represents the modest decor of the 17th century. Most rooms have large luxurious tubs great for soaking in after a long hard day of drinking wine and eating chocolate-filled pastries.

Literally at the gate of the hotel is the Place St. Pierre a small square where the Cathedral of St. Pierre and St. Paul towers in its gothic glory. It is around this square that John and I make our “home” for the next four days.

Every good tourist needs a few dependable destinations to get by. In Troyes, we have these sorted out on the first day: The Thierry Plique chocolatiere and patissier for bread and the all-important mouth-watering pastries; the Museum Café (right across the patissier) for afternoon wine in the shadow of the Cathedral’s bell tower; the le Celadon restaurant for an exceptional French meal; and the sandwich shop when the city closes down on Sunday and there is nowhere else to go.

We knew we had picked the right places when we kept running into the same locals and Brits who make Troyes their weekend home.

Also located in the square is the Modern Art Museum next to the Cathedral. This one time Episcopal Palace has been turned into a fantastic showcase for paintings, drawings and glassworks. Artists such as Picasso, Matisse and Modigliani can be seen for as little as six Euro. A lovely sculpture garden is included in the tour.

Days is Troyes revolve around a schedule that has existed for centuries.
Each morning is promptly started at 8 a.m. with a croissant and coffee. Shops open at 9 a.m. and then punctually close from noon to 2 p.m. Lunch is still a long affair in this city, and one is advised to play along or you will have nothing to do. After a leisurely lunch, it’s back to sight seeing and shopping until 7 p.m., when everything closes down again. The eight o’clock hour arrives and it’s off to another unhurried meal.

Though Troyes in the Champagne region, you must travel 72 miles north to the city of Reims to tour many of region’s most well-known champagne houses.

Taittinger, G.H. Mumm & Co., Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin and Pommery are just a few of the big name champagne houses that will take you on a tour of their caves. A drink is included in the price and there are tours in English. It is possible to also just have a drink and skip the tour if you are short on time. Reservations are not required but recommended if you want to fit in all the tours because many close for the lunch hour.

While most of the houses are large and cater to the charter bus crowd, it is often in your best interest to seek out the smaller houses. This is exactly what John and I do, and we don’t regret it for a moment.

At G.H. Martel & Co., we receive first-class treatment, as we were basically the only ones there. Instead of being a tourist in a group, we were treated as friends who had come over for a drink. Our guide invests a lot of time in us and goes into full detail of the champagne process to satisfy my curious husband.

While in Reims, the Notre-Dame Cathedral is a gorgeous site not to be missed. From any side, the gargoyles stare you down as you take in its gothic beauty, which in my opinion rivals the Notre- Dame Cathedral in Paris. Listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site, it too has a bevy of beautiful stained glass including works by modern master Mark Chagall.

While Reims has its magnificent Cathedral and the champagne houses, it can’t beat the splendid charm of Troyes. It is easy to get lost in the many alleys and lanes that wind through the half-timbered houses of the 14th century.

Whether you want to drink champagne, take in some art, see historical architecture, or just chill out the Aube region of France has it all. Vive la Troyes!