Divided Destination

Published in One Magazine January 2008

The Chain Bridge is more than a magnificent icon of an Eastern European city which tourists walk in order to peer into the glorious Danube. Its main task since 1873 has been to unite the ancient cities of Buda and Pest into a modern Budapest.

While the Chain Bridge does its job, there still remain distinct differences between the two sections of Hungary’s capital.

Buda is the posh and royal side, made up of rolling hills, and literally looks down at the blue-collar, flat Pest. While Pest grows as the city’s modern and cultural barometer, Buda remains preserved in its glamorous style.

The Royal Palace of Buda perched atop a hill like a crown is best reached by a funicular which starts its journey at the base of the Danube. The inexpensive ride at 1,700 Hungarian Forint ($10 US) is a quick trip to the top affording breathtaking views of Pest.

The funicular drops you at the heart of Buda with the former Royal Palace to the south and the current president of Hungary’s home to the north. While there are several guards around the president’s home, the pomp of the former monarchy is long gone.

Instead, now the palace and the surrounding Castle District are for the people of Budapest and the growing numbers of tourists who are finding out what this city has to offer.

Along with the traditional museums of a tourist town like the Budapest History Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art, there are also ancient churches where the Hungarian kings were crowned, remains of Roman fortresses, well-manicured squares and The Hungarian House of Wines. The latter has an extensive supply of wines where 3,400 Hungarian Forint ($20 US) will get you as many tastes of the growing Hungarian wine industry as you can stomach.

Just to the south of the Royal Palace is Gellert Hill. Here paths twist and turn among lush trees and cut up through the steep hill side. Many observation decks are in place so that walkers can take in the many views of the Danube and her two banks that have been named an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Trekking up the hill is a rewarding experience not only for the amazing views but also for the memorial of Saint Gellert himself. This vast monument was erected in 1904 and is meant to glorify the patron saint of Budapest. From its location midway up the hill the monument can be seen from almost any where in the city and is truly spectacular at night.

Perched loftily at the top of Gellert Hill are the Citadel and its Liberation Monument. A former Hapsburg fortification the Citadel has been turned into a tourist destination with a restaurant, hotel and nightclub. The Liberation Monument, built to celebrate the freeing of Budapest from the Russians in 1945, is another imposing monument that can also be seen from all over the city.

At the foot of the hill is the famous Gellert Hotel known for its outstanding service and legendary thermal baths. The early 20th Century was the halcyon days for this hotel. The Gellert is still popular today because of its ornately tiled thermal baths. Tourists and Hungarians flock not only to this hotel and its spa but to many of the other medicinal thermal baths found in Budapest.

Taking in the natural healing waters is a favorite Hungarian pastime. The Romans first discovered the abundance of the thermal springs and built many bath houses. Yet it is the Turks, who occupied Hungary for 150 years, that placed their mark on the bathing ritual and made it what it is today. This continues in three of Budapest’s bathhouses: the Kiraly Baths, the Csazar Baths and the Rudas Baths. However, it is the Szechenyi Medicinal Baths that are the largest in Europe.

At the Szechenyi Baths in the City Park, on the Pest side, men gather to play chess as they restore in the healing waters of the bath. These baths, three of which are located outdoors, are known as the hottest in Budapest and are popular all year round even when it rains or snows.

Along with the Szechenyi Baths the Pest side has just as many opportunities to explore.

Pest is known as the blue collar, working side of Budapest. It is on this side that the working class lives and the seat of the government can be found. This is a direct contrast to the Buda side where the more elite reside and the echoes of royalty remain.

Parliament, with its large, red dome, can be found along the Danube. The building was based on the Houses of Parliament in London and is the new symbol of Budapest.

Not too far from Parliament is St. Stephan’s Basilica. This church is named after St. Stephan (Istvan), the first Christian King of Hungary. Built in the 1800s, this church was also a causality of World War II. The most intriguing component of this church is the actual right hand of King Stephan. It is kept in the Chapel of the Holy Right Hand located in the back of the church. A small contribution will turn on the light inside the display case revealing the king’s holy bones.

After an enlightening visit to St. Stephan’s, a stroll down the pedestrian shopping street known as The Vaci Utca with its high end boutiques, antique shops, wine stores and many restaurants is a welcome respite. The Secessionist architecture, similar to Art Nuveau, blends into the modern reminding people that Budapest has come from the old into the new.

At the south end of the Vaci is the Central Market Hall, a good old fashioned market where fresh meat, produce and Russian caviar are sold amongst tourist treats of paprika and fried meats, bread and beer. It is a true shopper’s delight if you are looking for inexpensive souvenirs or a fresh local meal.

Of all of Budapest’s qualities, the most consistent and satisfying is the food. Local beers and wine are palatable companions to chicken or veal paprika. Spicy goulash soup will burn your throat and satisfy any hunger. Stroganoff with fried cheese croquettes will delight any appetite. Tasty rich chocolates and slices of sinful cakes are served by the thousands at stylish cafes like Gerbeaud.

Budapest is a combination of many things. Two cities divided by a natural border finally brought together by human ingenuity. It is a chaotic mixture of architecture, food and cultures resulting in a wonderful place to explore. The people are kind and genuine and always ready to assist to get you beyond the language barrier. Hungary has had a rich history that has afforded an intermingled culture that can delight anyone.

Budapest is growing at amazing rates. Construction of new luxury hotels is everywhere. The infrastructure is being modernized. Higher end stores are opening along the Vaci Utca.
Yet each side of the Danube still retains its character and stays true to itself.

While there may be gleaming new hotels, Escada outlets, and touristy fast food restaurants Budapest will never forget where it has been and what it has to offer. This melding of old and new, modern and ancient, east and west makes Budapest the perfect vacation destination.